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[Chemlinked] Indonesia to Amend Cosmetic Ingredient Use Requirements: 7 Newly Permitted Ingredients and 230 Newly Prohibited Ingredients

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등록일 2022-04-18

조회수 8087

On Mar. 29, 2022, Indonesia BPOM released the second draft amendments to Technical Requirements for Cosmetics Ingredients for public consultation. The main amendments include

1) revising the general requirements for prohibited cosmetic ingredients;

2) revising the use requirements for other ingredients (ingredients not listed in Appendix I) and natural ingredients;

3) adding 5 restricted ingredients and deleting 1 restricted ingredient;

4) adding 2 permitted sunscreens;

5) adding 230 prohibited ingredients.

 

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published on Dec. 14, 2021, and was updated on Apr. 15, 2022, as per the latest developments.

Background: Current Ingredient Use Requirements

Cosmetic ingredients in Indonesia shall comply with Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients and its appendices:

  • Appendix I: restricted ingredients
  • Appendix II: permitted colorants with limitations and conditions of use (not include hair dyes only for dyeing hair)
  • Appendix III: permitted preservatives with limitations and conditions of use
  • Appendix IV: permitted sunscreens with limitations and conditions of use
  • Appendix V: prohibited ingredients

Prohibited cosmetic ingredients in Indonesia are:

  • Ingredients listed in Appendix I that do not comply with the allowable limit and conditions of use;
  • Ingredients listed in Appendix II, III and IV that do not comply with the specified requirements;
  • Colorants, preservatives, and sunscreens not listed in Appendix II, III, and IV;
  • Prohibited ingredients listed in Appendix V.

Notes:

  • Other cosmetic ingredients not listed in Appendix I (hereafter referred to as “other ingredients”) can be used as long as it meets the safety, efficacy, and quality requirements. Relevant scientific or empirical evidence is required to provide and be included in Product Information File (PIF).
  • When natural ingredients not listed in Appendix II, III, and IV are used as colorants, preservatives, or sunscreens in cosmetics (hereafter referred to as “natural ingredients”), relevant scientific or empirical evidence is required to provide and be included in PIF.

Main Amendments in the Draft

1. Revise the general requirements for prohibited cosmetic ingredients

The draft stipulates that the prohibited ingredients for cosmetics are (changes are marked in red):

  • Ingredients listed in Appendix I that do not comply with the allowable limit and conditions of use;
  • Ingredients listed in Appendix II, III and IV that do not comply with the specified requirements;
  • Ingredients listed in Appendix II, III and IV not used as the colorant, preservative and sunscreen agent, and do not comply with the requirements listed in Appendix II, III and IV;
  • Colorants not listed in Appendix II, except for hair dyes only for dyeing hair;
  • Preservatives not listed in Appendix III;
  • Sunscreens not listed in Appendix IV;
  • Prohibited ingredients listed in Appendix V.

2. Revise the use requirements of other ingredients and natural ingredients

If business actors intend to use other ingredients or natural ingredients in cosmetics, in addition to scientific or empirical evidence, a policy recommendation on ingredient safety/efficacy/quality issued by Directorate of Standardization of Traditional Medicines, Health Supplements and Cosmetics is newly required.

To apply for a policy recommendation, business actors need to submit the following documents:

  • The application letter for the issuance of a policy recommendation on ingredient safety/efficacy/quality;
  • Supporting data on ingredient safety/efficacy/quality.

Based on the request, Directorate of Standardization of Traditional Medicines, Health Supplements and Cosmetics will evaluate the documents and submit a policy recommendation to BPOM (Indonesian FDA). Further provisions regarding the issuance of policy recommendations will be issued in the future.

3. Add 5 restricted ingredients to and delete 1 restricted ingredient from Appendix I

1) 5 restricted ingredients added

No.

Ref No. in ACD

Ingredient name / CAS No.

Restrictions

Conditions of use and warnings which must be printed on the labels

Field of application and/or use

Maximum authorized concentration in ready-for-use-preparation

Other limitations and requirements

 

A

B

C

D

E

F

206

324

Tagetes minuta flower extract

CAS No. 91770‐75‐1

 

Tagetes minuta flower oil

CAS No. 91770‐75‐1/8016‐84‐0

(a) Leave‐on products

 

(b) Rinse‐off products

(a) 0.01%

 

(b) 0.1%

For (a) and (b): Alpha terthienyl (terthiophen) content in the extract/oil ≤ 0.35 %.

 

For (a): Not to be used in sunscreen products and products marketed for exposure to natural/artificial UV light.

 

  1. (a) and (b): In case of combined use with Tagetes patula (No. 207) or Tagetes erecta (No. 208), the total combined content of Tagetes in ready-for-use preparation shall not exceed the maximum concentration limits set out in column (d).

/

207

325

Tagetes patula flower extract

CAS No. 91722‐29‐1

 

Tagetes patula flower oil

CAS No. 91722‐29‐1/8016‐84‐0

(a) Leave‐on products

 

(b) Rinse‐off products

(a) 0.01%

 

(b) 0.1%

For (a) and (b): Alpha terthienyl (terthiophen) content in the extract/oil ≤ 0.35 %.

 

For (a): Not to be used in sunscreen products and products marketed for exposure to natural/artificial UV light.

 

  1. (a) and (b): In case of combined use with Tagetes minuta (No. 206) or Tagetes erecta (No. 208), the total combined content of Tagetes in ready-for-use preparation shall not exceed the maximum concentration limits set out in column (d).

/

208

327

Tagetes erecta flower extract

CAS No. 90131‐43‐4

 

Tagetes erecta flower oil

CAS No. 90131‐43‐4

(a) Leave‐on products

 

(b) Rinse‐off products

(a) 0.01%

 

(b) 0.1%

For (a) and (b): Alpha terthienyl (terthiophen) content in the extract/oil ≤ 0.35 %.

 

For (a): Not to be used in sunscreen products and products marketed for exposure to natural/artificial UV light.

 

  1. (a) and (b): In case of combined use with Tagetes minuta (No. 206) or Tagetes patula (No. 207), the total combined content of Tagetes in ready-for-use preparation shall not exceed the maximum concentration limits set out in column (d).

/

209

/

2-Hydroxyethyl

Methacrylate

HEMA

CAS No. 868-77-9

Preparations for nail care and makeup

/

Applied by professionals

- Only applied by professionals

- May cause allergic reactions

210

/

11,14-Dioxa-2,9-

diazaheptadec-16-enoic

Acid, 4,4,6,16-

tetramethyl-10,15-dioxo,

2-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-

propenyl)oxy]ethyl ester Di-HEMA Trimethylhexyl

Dicarbamate

CAS No. 41137-60-4/

72869-86-4

Preparations for nail care and makeup

/

Applied by professionals

- Only applied by professionals

- May cause allergic reactions

2) 1 restricted ingredient deleted

No.

Ref No. in ACD

Substance/CAS No.

Restrictions

Conditions of use and warning which must be printed on the labels

Field of application and/or use

Maximum authorised concentration in the ready-for-use preparation

Other limitations and requirements

52

13

Formaldehyde (INCI)

CAS No. 50-00-0

Nail hardening products

5% as formaldehyde

Function as a preservative, specified in Appendix III of this Agency Regulation, at number 31.

- Protects nail cuticles with moisturizer or oil

- Contains formaldehyde

4. Add 2 permitted sunscreens in Appendix IV

No.

Ref No. in ACD

Substance

Maximum Authorised concentration

Other limitations and requirements

31

30

3,3-(1,4-Phenylene) bis (5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine)

Phenylene Bis-Diphe-nyltriazine (INCI)

CAS No. 5514-22-2

5%

Not to be used in application that may lead to exposure of the end user's lungs by inhalation.

32

31

2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino) cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene]acetate

Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate

CAS No. 1419401-88-9

3%

- Not to be used in application that may lead to exposure of the end-user's lungs by inhalation.

- Maximum nitrosamine content: 50μg/kg (in raw material terms);

- Kept in nitrite-free containers.

5. Add 230 prohibited ingredients in Appendix V

The prohibited cosmetic ingredients in Appendix V are increased from 1,375 to 1,605. Find the 230 newly prohibited ingredients here.

Newly Prohibited Cosmetic Ingredients (Excerpt)

No.

Ref No. in ACD

Substance

CAS No.

1376

1381

3-and 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) cyclohex-3-

ene-1-carbaldehyde (HICC)

51414-25-6;

31906-04-4

1377

1382

2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzaldehyde (atranol)

526-37-4

1378

1383

3-Chloro-2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzaldehyde

(chloroatranol)

57074-21-2

1379

1384

2-chlorobenzene-1,4-diamine (2-Chloro-p-

Phenylenediamine), sulfate salts and their dihydrochloride salts, when used in

hair dye preparation

615-66-7;

61702-44-1

(sulfate); 615-46-3

(dihydro

chloride)

1380

1385

Cis-1-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7- triaza-1-

azoniaadamantane chloride (cis-CTAC)

51229-78-8

1381

1390

2,2’-((3,3’,5,5’-Tetramethyl-(1,1’-biphenyl)-4,4’-diyl)-bis(oxymethylene))-bis-oxirane

85954-11-6

1382

1392

1-Cyclopropyl-6,7-difluoro-1,4-dihydro-4-

oxoquinoline-3-carboxylic acid

93107-30-3

Further Reading

 

Reference Links

[1] Indonesia Released the Second Draft Amendments to Cosmetic Ingredient Use Requirements

 

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