The UVA-prevention effect of Japanese sunscreen cosmetics will be determined with reference to ISO 24442: 2022 since Sept. 1, 2022.

In Japan, the determination of the UVA-prevention efficacy of cosmetics can refer to "ISO 24442: 2011 Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection", which was first published by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and adopted by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as a voluntary standard for sunscreen cosmetics.

ISO released an updated version in June 2022, and JCIA made corresponding updates to its voluntary standard on September 1, 2022. Compared with the 2011 version, the major revisions of ISO 24442: 2022 include the definition of minimal persistent pigment darkening dose (MPPDD), sampling, and judgment criteria.¹

Specific Revisions

• lMPPDD

The definition of MPPDD was changed, amending "most of the field of UVA exposure" to "more than 50 % of UV exposure subsite". Besides, corresponding photo examples have been added as a guidance for persistent pigment darkening grading.

New definition in ISO 24442: 2022:

MPPDD refers to lowest UVA dose that produces the first perceptible unambiguous persistent pigment darkening response with over more than 50 % of UV exposure subsite, observed between 2 h and 24 h after the end of the UVA exposure.

• Skin typing

For test subjects, the Fitzpatrick skin typing classification was abolished. The Individual Typology Angle (ITA) becomes the only skin typing classification method. In Ultraviolet A Protection Factor (UVAPF) test, the ITA°value of subject shall be within the range of 18°and 43°.

• Sample

In addition to the existing two standards sample (S1: 4.4, S2: 12.7), three new standards (P2: 2.7, P5: 13.4, P8: 27.5) have been added to support products with a wide range of UVAPF values.

• Others

For each preparation type, the coating method of the sample is described in detail. In addition, the requirements for data refusal are described for each case.

Notably

In Japan, the ultraviolet light protection efficacy level for sunscreen products is indicated as SPF and PA. As it is not stipulated in national regulations, enterprises need to refer to the determination results by voluntary identification standard method formulated by JCIA. Although the voluntary industry standard is non-binding, companies are encouraged to comply. ²

Currently, JCIA has introduced two voluntary standards, "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection" and "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor", with reference to ISO standards.

Reference Links

[1] JCIA's notification on Sept. 1

[2] Current Conditions of Sun Protection Test Methods for Sunscreen Products

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